Pedalling into the New Year in Portugal
In a few days we will be leaving Spain and heading into France - and we haven’t shared our experience in Portugal. So while sitting in a laundromat in Barcelona we are taking the time to write about our eleven days in Portugal - the land of beautiful beaches, ocean sunsets, cobblestone streets, the scrumptious pastel de nata and the oldest bookshop in the world!
Portugal is famous for its surf beaches and sunsets over the water
Our plan was to arrive in Lisbon on the morning of New Year’s Eve refreshed after enjoying a sleeper on the famous Sud Express that leaves Hendaye on the France/Spain border every evening. The train departs at 6.30pm so we arrived with three hours to spare to be informed there was no train today but a ‘bus’. There has been major disruption on the French railways since November and we had been feeling quite pleased with ourselves that we had managed to avoid any major issues. The Sud Express however is a Spanish train and the French information desk wouldn’t give any more answers. As we had some time we decided to cycle the 4 kms across the border to Irun Station. There it was explained the train had a mechanical issue so instead of a lovely 12 hours in a sleeper carriage - to be one of the highlights of our trip - we were to spend the first 6+ hours in a bus and then transfer to the train after midnight!
Peter took the time to pack our bikes into their bags and we boarded the bus with around a dozen other travellers. The bus finally arrived at the rail station around 1am ... and it was chaos ... we had to quickly lug our panniers and packed bikes across railway tracks covered in ice! Finally with the gracious assistance of a young man we found our carriage and packed ourselves in - the bikes stacked up in our shower. We immediately headed down to the cafe bar for a 2am dinner!! Arriving in Lisbon six hours later Peter set a record on bike assembly and then we cycled off to our ‘treat’ hotel for NYE. It was fun staying in the heart of the old town with a balcony and we joined the thousands at the square to welcome in 2020 with fireworks. The next two days we spent exploring the city, eating pastéis de nata and reorganising ourselves for our ride through Portugal.
Our cycle plan for Portugal was to take around nine days - six days heading south and then three to the Spanish border. After more than two weeks break the 55 kms on day one with some steep climbing was a bit challenging - well at least for Leigh. Fortunately we made our campsite in good time to set up and enjoy a rejuvenating hot shower! Peter was the lucky one who discovered that there is no toilet paper provided in the campsite toilets!!!
Day 2 was much easier and included a nice ferry ride - though that night’s campsite was interesting. The woman who registered us was lovely and gave us what she thought was a prime position ... so we pitched our tent on stones under an old shelter in the middle of permanent caravans - all unoccupied. We had decided to treat ourselves and eat out as we were told there were nice restaurants nearby. Instead it was the worst food on our trip so far. We were the only people in the restaurant ... waitress spoke no English and our Portuguese is rubbish but still she had no interest in serving us and let us each order double servings! Usually that wouldn’t be a problem as after a day of riding we are ravenous - but there there was no desire to eat the food at all! We left most of the food on the table.
The next day we started riding along country roads ... and as it was Saturday there were lots of ‘Bom Dia’ to local cyclists along the way. We had lunch in Sines old town - then headed out past the port and along the coast. A nice day then became absolutely glorious as we spent two hours cycling the coast in the winter sun. A last 2 km run near Porto Covo (with a nice tailwind) took us to a coastal campsite. We watched the sun set over the Atlantic before tucking into Peter’s pesto pasta and the customary hot chocolate & a pastel de nata.
Peter is chief navigator and our general plan was to follow EuroVelo 1/The Atlantic Route. The Portugal section of EuoVelo1 has an app so along with Maps.me that was our navigation guide. The challenge in Portugal is the route can take you through odd places - sometimes through private property. It was a very sandy path through private land that saw Leigh’s first glorious fall - thankfully the sand buffered the impact.
Two key aspects of our time in Portugal was running into other cycle tourers, sharing stories and tips and the abundance of Eucalyptus trees - and wattle. In one campground it felt like we were back home in Australia.
On Day 6 we reached Sagres - apparently for hundreds of years it was thought to be the end of the world - that sea monsters lived just beyond the horizon before the earth dropped off into a terrible black hole. For us the only monster was the strong headwind! Arriving at the cape we parked our bikes among camper vans and stood on the stunning cliffs looking out to Beliche Beach and the wet suit cladded surfers braving the cold Atlantic.
Our plan to immediately head east along the Algarve hit a challenge when we woke to our first cold and rainy day in Portugal. Needing to keep to schedule we decided on distance over views and took the main road rather than the scenic coastline. Our first few hours were into a headwind but eventually the rain and wind eased and we started to make good time. After lunch we decided to go off the main road and push on past Portimao to Lagoa. All was going well until we started down a gravel road straight into a pack of dogs ... every cyclists nightmare ... after a short face off we retreated and took a detour. Unfortunately the detour included a steep hill ... and for Leigh at the end of a long day it was just too much ... there was a teary moment. After some friendly encouragement from a local women she got back on her bike and cycled to the apartment and a treat of piri-piri chicken.
After seven days of cycling we took the next day to relax, dry out the tent and wash our clothes in the machines that are conveniently located in front of supermarkets. We decided to do a train/cycle day to reach the border. Though the Algarve trainline technically has a cabin for bicycles they don’t make it easy - from platform up to the cabin entrance was around a 1 metre - a challenge with loaded bikes. We arrived at the border for our last camp on a Portugal beach but first cycled to the ferry to check times for the following day. We were told the first ferry wasn’t until 10.30 am... so we made a last minute decision to take the last ferry of the day and cycle into the Spanish sunset.
Neither of us had been to Portugal before so really didn’t know what to expect ... we met lovely people, learnt some of the fascinating history, experienced amazing coastal views and wonderful winter sun ... and overindulged on great food. Tchau Portugal!
Some learnings:
Always keep a personal stash of toilet paper at campsites
There is always a pastel de nata space in your tummy
Make sure you don’t forget to have enough fuel for your camp stove
Sand is not the most cycle friendly surface