Slavonia … an unexpected experience
Historically and culturally Croatia is divided into four regions, Croatia proper, Dalmatia, Istria and Slavonia …we crossed the border from Serbia into Slavonia. Immediately we noticed the improved road surface but unfortunately the plentiful and quirky EuroVelo signs disappeared. A requisite bakery stop gave us not only the opportunity to start thinking in Croatian Kuna but some needed sustenance for five steep climbs ahead. The final stretch of the day into Vukovar, where we planned to spend the night, was an easier cycle and we fell into a good rhythm.
Our overnight stops are planned around distance, terrain, budget and accommodation options and that is why we chose Vukovar but as we cycled into the town we passed what was obviously a significant memorial. Though aware of the conflict in the Balkans in the early 1990’s we were not specifically aware of the role of the Battle of Vukovar in the conflict or the Vukovar hospital massacre. For 87 days - from August until 18 November 1991 - around 1,800 self-organised lightly armed soldiers defended the city against approximately 36,000 JNA soldiers and paramilitaries equipped with heavy armour and artillery. Eventually overrun it is estimated that 2,000 defenders of Vukovar and civilians were killed, 800 went missing and 22,000 civilians were forced into exile. The Vukovar hospital massacre or the Ovčara massacre (200 killed c.60 missing presumed dead), occurred two days after the town’s capture. Vukovar remained in Serbian hands until 1998, when it was peacefully reintegrated into Croatia.
Much of the town is still physically scarred. We stayed near the city’s famous water tower, riddled with bullet holes it has been retained to serve as a reminder of the battle. Across the street from our apartment was a large mural of an anguished woman in the midst of graves. As we left and cycled though the town and surrounding villages, past other memorials and sat eating pastries, we watched the community go about their lives. All that violence and suffering happened less than 30 years ago - we couldn’t help but wonder the impact on their lives and their families. Some days later we shared with one of our hosts where we had cycled and she was visibly upset - her hand went to her heart as she said ‘So sad - for all our people.’
Osijek was our last stay in Slavonia and we took the afternoon train to the capital Zagreb. It is always an interesting operation getting two bikes and eight panniers onto a train - particularly when the platform is not elevated! We spent the weekend enjoying elegant Zagreb and then boarded the overnight train to Split. We need to sit in the same carriage as our bikes - so unfortunately no reclining seats or a sleeper! Arriving early in the morning our lovely Airbnb host let us check in at 8.30 am…so good. Our very cute apartment was in an old stone building near Bačvice Beach and a short walk to the old town. Five days off our bikes gave us the opportunity to do a big wash and some bike maintenance… as well as time to explore Split. It was also a chance to review our trip so far - the good and the challenging - and with these learnings plan the journey up the Dalmation coast and islands to Istria and then Trieste Italy.
